Muscatine, IA

Cool button factory mural on the building behind Elly's

Muscatine, Iowa may not be everyone's idea for a place to vacation. It's a sleepy town right across the Mississippi River from Illinois and not far from college town Iowa City. Agriculture seems to be the big industry locally, and in fact the corn processing plant envelops much of the town in a distinct, not unpleasant breakfast cereal aroma. Before the invention of the plastic button, it was a hub of pearl button manufacturing thanks to the abundance of freshwater mussels whose shells could be punched into little buttons. The love of my life grew up there in the 1970's and 80's, and his whole family still lives in Muscatine. We took a trip in 2015 to celebrate our recent engagement so I could see where he grew up.

This was my first visit to Iowa, and I instantly felt comfortable. Perhaps because I grew up in a small city known for its friendliness, and everyone I encountered here was hospitable and kind. Neil and I headed into town with his family for breakfast and coffee at Elly's on our first full day in town, then took our time walking around Muscatine and along side roads back to his parents' property a couple miles away.

Giant Mark Twain celebrating the former Muscatine resident's birthday.

Breakfast at Elly's is a solid bet. It's located right downtown with a great view of the river off the back patio, and the quiches and pastries are lovely. I have spent far too much time making and drinking espresso, so I'm always a little suspicious of a place whose smallest size is a 12oz, but Elly's mochas were delightful. Just the right amount of chocolate to espresso, perfect amount of foam to the milk, and served with genuine warmth. It's like the grown-up version of drinking cocoa made from scratch by your favorite auntie.

Beautiful old house overlooking the river

1800's bricker

Muscatine is not at immediate risk of becoming overdeveloped, though there are interior renovations and a new hotel being built downtown. Because of this, much of the older parts of town feel almost frozen in time. If you block out the modern cars, you can almost imagine you are walking along early-twentieth century roads and out into the rolling prairie grasses. We took our time visiting every part of town, with Neil telling stories of his youth at nearly every intersection.

Eventually, we made our way to the large cemetery where many generations of Iowans are buried, including Civil War veterans and members of Muscatine's more influential families.

cemetery entrance

Legend says anyone who witnesses the "blue angel" in this tomb dropping her rose at midnight on Halloween is cursed to die, but a vandal recently broke off her offending hand. I guess even tough guys are afraid of ghosts.

Leaving the main areas of town following my restroom break at what Neil called a "sketchy bar" but really was a smokey tavern haunted by day drinkers, we headed back toward his parents' place, moseying along the highway, then down a side road and into the woods for a bit.

Farm house, corn field, breakfast smell factory

old-timey gas pump in a field by the road

roadside shrine 

Neil sent me a photo of this abandoned railcar when we were first dating. I finally got to see it in person. People have definitely squatted here. 

Raccoon skull in the woods

Turkey tail fungus!

I am looking forward to many more trips to Muscatine in the future. Sadly, I caught airport flu during our flight there, so I spent much of the trip snuggled up with tea and snacks. Not at all sadly, I am marrying into a very cool family who lives in a beautiful part of the country so I will have many more opportunities to explore and take better photos.